パタゴニアに残した標─しるべ─
A Monument Left in Patagonia

1991年、僕は南米大陸をアンデス山脈ぞいに南下していた。コロンビア、エクアドル、ペルー、ボリビアと旅し、チリに入ったのは7月、日本を発ってアメリカ大陸の来てから1年2ヵ月経っていた。チリは北から南まで細長くまっすぐに伸びている国である。北は荒涼とした乾燥地帯だが、南へ移動するに従い緑が増え寒くなってゆく。7月、南半球では冬、寒い季節をもっと”寒い南”に向かっていた…首都サンチアゴを過ぎ、プエルト・モンからコヤイケにフェリーで来るといよいよ寒さが身にしみるようになった。しかし僕は更に、南米大陸のできるだけ先っぽに行きたかった。ひょっとしたらそこから南極へ渡れるかもしれないなどと考えていた。
パイネ国立公園
南米大陸南端の地は、パタゴニアと呼ばれ、その大自然の作り出すユニークな風物で知られている。マゼラン海峡のあることでも有名なこの地域は、日本から見ると地球の裏側、一番遠い地である。僕はその中のチリ領の小さな港町プエルト・ナレタスへやってきた。ここはパイネ国立公園へのゲートタウンである。パイネ国立公園は、火山活動と厳しい気候が作った不思議な形状の山と湖、氷河や草原、そしてそこに生息する動植物でパタゴニアの名所の一つとなっている。そかし真冬にやってきたばかりに道路事情が悪く、公園への公共の交通がなかった。困っているところへ、パイネのツアーガイドとして有名なエドワルド・スコット氏の噂を聞き、彼の経営するHotel Australを訪ねてみる。運良く翌日イギリス人11人のグループを連れて出発するとのことで、それに同行させてもらうことにした。
制作中の僕
僕は大自然の中、イギリス人達と、又、スコット氏や宿泊施設の人と楽しく数日過ごした。僕がスケッチしているのを見たスコット氏は、彼のホテルの食堂の壁にパイネの風景を描いて欲しいと提案してきた。最初は自信が無く、どうしようか決めかねていたが、自分の絵を地球の裏側に残せるせっかくのチャンスだと思い、引き受けることにした。かくして住込みでパイネの壁画と取組むことになった。 Hotel Australには、スコット氏と奥さん、高校生になる娘ブレンダ、従業員のサンドラが住んでいる。息子は近くの都市プンタアレーナスに仕事に出ている。この頃、グアテマラで習った僕のスペイン語もかなり上手くなっていたので楽しい毎日が過ごせた。
スコット夫妻と
スコット氏の姪のブレンディータは、ホテルで洗濯の仕事をしているお母さんと、ほぼ毎日やってくる。小学校に入ったばかりだが、頭がよくおませで、僕とよく遊んだ。(よく遊んでもらったのかも。)サンドラを気にしていた僕は何度かアタックしてみたが婚約者がいるのでと断わられ続けていた。こんな毎日だが壁画は集中して制作できた。小さい町ながら画材もだいたい手に入った。壁2面に描いた大きな風景だけでなく動物の絵が他の壁にまで広がってきた。 3週間してひとくぎりついた時、一休みして更に南へ旅する。南極への船は見つからなかったものの、プンタアレーナスから世界再南端の村プエルトトーロへの漁船をみつけ、便乗した。南極目前のわず数世帯の村で、軍の基地に1週間世話になった。何もない所だったが、僕は旅も終わりに近いと感じていた。 再びプエルトナレタスにもどった僕は更に残りの壁に絵を描いた。この間僕は27歳の誕生日を迎え、皆にお祝いしてもらった(今までで最も印象深い誕生日のひとつである。)食堂の壁すべてを絵うめた時、プエルトナタレスを去る日がきた。パタゴニア地方に来て1ヵ月半が経っていた。もっと長居したかったが、日本を離れて1年半、そろそろ日本に帰る時期だと思っていた。皆と別れを惜しみつつこの地を後に。ひたすら南へ向かい続け、ここに自分の絵を残せたことは意義深い。同じくパタゴニアで出会った人々との触れ合いは、今も忘れることはない。

Time is 1991. I was going down towards the south along the Andes Mountains in South America. I travelled through Colombia, Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia, and I arrived at Chile in July. A year and two months had past since I left Japan. Chile looks like a thin strip of land stretching from north to south. While north Chile is a desolate dry area, south Chile has more green. As moving to the south, it gets colder and colder. July is winter in the southern hemisphere. I was moving towards メユthe colder southモ, and the coldness finally became very severe when I passed the nationユs capital, Santiago and I arrived at Koiyake from Puerto Mon by ferry. But still, I wanted to go further south heading towards the southernmost point of the Continent. I was even thinking that I might be able to get to the Antarctic.

The southernmost part of the South American Continent is called Patagonia, and it is well-known for its unique landscapes created by the great nature. This region, which is also known for The Magellan Straits, is the rear side of the globe, the furthest place from Japan. I decided to go to a small port town in Chile domain, Puerto Natales. This town is a gate to the Paine National park. The Paine National park is one of the tourist attractions in Patagonia for its bizarre landscape created by volcano and harsh climate, glacier and prairie, and wild animals and plants. However, unfortunately, since it was the middle of winter, the road conditions were very bad and there was no transportation to the park. I was feeling at loss, but, timely, I heard about Mr. Edward Scott, who is famous as a tour guide in Paine. I visited Hotel Austral, which is run by him. Luckily, he happened to go on a tour with a group of 11 British people the next day, and he let me join the tour. I spent fun days with Mr. Scott and the Hotel staff.

When Mr. Scott saw me sketching, he asked me to paint the Paine scenery on the wall in the dining room. At first, I did not have enough confidence, and was being indecisive. However, I started thinking that this could be a great opportunity to leave my work on the rear side of the earth, and finally accepted the request. Thus, I ended up staying at the Hotel, and started working on a mural painting of Paine.

In Hotel Austral, Mr. Scott, his wife, their daughter, Brenda who was a high school student, and a hotelユs employee, Sandra. Mr. Scottユs son lived in a nearby city, Punta Anales for his job. By then, my Spanish, which I started studying in Guatemala, had been improved a lot, and I could have a fun time everyday. Mr. Scottユs niece, Brendita came to the hotel everyday with her mother who worked at the hotel doing laundry. Although she just started attending elementary school, she was very smart and mature. We played together often. I was attracted to Sandra, and asked her out a couple times. But she always turned me down because she had a fiance On the other hand, even though my days had passed like this, I could concentrate on the mural production. I could find most of the painting materials in this small town. I painted a large landscape on two sides of the wall, and started painting animals on the other sides. After 3 weeks, when the work was roughly done, I took a break and went to the south for a trip. I could not find a ship to the Antarctic, but I got on a fish boat from Punta Alenas to Puerto Toro, which is the southernmost village in the world. The village is located right before the Antarctica, and there were only several families living there. I stayed at the military base for a week. There was nothing in the village, and I started realizing my journey is getting close to the end.

When I came back to Puerto Natales, I painted on the rest of the walls. In the meantime, I had my 27th birthday, and everybody celebrated it for me. (It was one of the most memorable birthdays in my life.)

When I painted all the walls in the dining room, it was the day to leave Puerto Natales. It had been one and a half months since I came to Patagonia. I wanted to stay longer, but it had been one year and a half since I left Japan, and I felt it was about time to go home. I said good-bye to everyone, and left them behind. It was very meaningful for me to go far south and to be able to leave my painting there. I could never forget the people who I met in Patagonia.




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